Tuesday, 15 September 2026 05:06

Embracing the jungle near Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

At ancient Polonnaruwa… Andrew Phillips, Sasha Marshall, Travel Advocates; Ranindu Lakmal Kalubowila, guide with Aitken Spence; Travels; Salveen Kumar, Michelle Rowe, Rachel Rhind, Travel Advocates At ancient Polonnaruwa… Andrew Phillips, Sasha Marshall, Travel Advocates; Ranindu Lakmal Kalubowila, guide with Aitken Spence; Travels; Salveen Kumar, Michelle Rowe, Rachel Rhind, Travel Advocates

Heritance Kandalama hotel near Sigiriya in Sri Lanka is progressively being absorbed into the surrounding jungle and that is exactly the way general manager Asela Wavita likes it.

‘Just this week, I saw a monkey open the restaurant door, come in and take a piece of papaya. That’s the first time I know of it happening – though for a long time they have been able to get into rooms if guests leave the door slightly open.’

While the monkeys will obviously not be encouraged into dining areas, Wavita says Heritance Kandalama embraces the nature around it and was designed for that by famous Sri Lankan architect Sir Geoffrey Bawa (the pioneer of Tropical Modernism) in the early 1990s.

Wavita, who has been GM for the past four years, notes that there was initially local protest and push back before the hotel was built but a proven environmental record and positive community outcomes have long turned the sentiment around.

‘They would not allow us to close now.’

The hotel, a member of the Aitken Spence portfolio, hosted a group of Travel Advocates for two nights last week. It has 162 rooms over seven floors, three swimming pools, a gym and spa, restaurant and a couple of bars.

Wavita says the hotel is considering refurbishments now but is always cautious, because of the nature of the property, about making changes.

  • Sri Lanka Second 1Heritance Kandalama GM Asela Wavita with Michelle Rowe, Travel Advocates
  • Sri Lanka Second 4Sigiriya, well worth the hour’s walk to the top...
  • Sri Lanka Second HeritanceInfinity pool at Heritance Kandalama
  • Sri Lanka Second Sigiriya...Ranindu Lakmal Kalubowila, Aitken Spence Travels
  • Sri Lanka Polonnaruwa Polonnaruwa

The two big attractions to explore from here are Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa, both UNESCO World Heritage sites. The former is also known as Lion Rock (only the massive paws can be seen today) and the most spectacular views and archaeological finds are at the top of 900-step climb. Another must see (about half-way up) is a chamber of preserved frescos – there were once 500 of them but now only 18 remain.

The climb is a bit of a puff but clients of moderate fitness will be able reach the top in an hour or so. For those not confident, the ground level surrounds are still worth a visit.

Polonnaruwa needs at least half a day. Travellers should start at the Archaeological Museum for an introduction, then head to The Royal Palace Complex and The Quadrangle. To enter the sacred sites, dress codes demand the covering of shoulders and knees (no footwear or hats) but they can be enjoyed just by wandering the grounds. 

As awe inspiring as these places are, the most spectacular sight at Polonnaruwa is the Gal Vihara (Stone Temple) built 900 years ago and containing three colossal Buddha statues carved into the rock.